Mini Review - St. Roch Fish Market

OBNO 163
"One from Column A, One from Column B"

The familiar patter of Mandarin, annoying to most, sounded like music, as he
walked thru the doors. as one would suspect in an establishment like this,
the smell of roasted pork was in the air, and the teenage girls manning the
registers were busily barking orders at their mother in the kitchen: "fried
rice! sweet and sour shrimp! fish plate!"

Assuming their rightful place as heirs and future family providers, the sons
were busy helping dad, behind the counter of fresh and frozen meat and fish,
with hand written signs taped to the glass, pronouncing availabilities, and
taboos: "no sample here!" "very much seasons!" and the like.

I could have been in a Chinese market or restaurant in Guangzhou, or San
Francisco. But the sign on the building outside said "St. Roch Seafood
Market," and the local population of New Orleans has been buying shrimp,
crab, and oysters from this portal for the past 150 years................"

St. Roch is a neighborhood immediately adjacent to the Marigny, and it
started to be settled when a local commuter train first connected the
Marigny to settlements on the lake, around 1830.

The neighborhood has produced many jazz greats, including Jelly Roll Morton.

As for the market, it had always been a local grocery (seems like there used
to be one on nearly every corner) but had fallen into complete disrepair at
the beginning of the 30s. The city planned to tear it down, but locals
protested, and, with the assistance of the WPA, it was restored, and new
plumbing and fixtures were installed, as well.

It's been difficult to find out how many times this market has changed hands
over the years. I've heard the "original" owners moved out to the northern
burbs and opened a clone some years ago.

But the venerable original market is still open, with a Chinese family at
the helm. In addition to po-boys and hot lunch plates, a limited number of
Chinese dishes are available each day. "Folks round here" say the St. Roch
makes some of the best gumbos in town. In a city where you can get a fish
po-boy on almost every corner, the St. Roch's is "over the top."

The fresh seafood counter looks fine, comparing it to some of the others in
the neighborhood (tho my favorite remains King Rogers). St. Roch's seafood
prices are a bit more than its competitors, but then, the clientele seems to
be a bit different. Maybe because of tradition, post white flight refugees
that still come to the CBD for office chores might be inclined to stop in
there out of loyalty, but don't patronize the "King." (It's only been around
35 years - a newboy on the block).

There are six or eight tables for two at St. Roch, but mostly the business
seems to be take out. King Roger's has a couple of tables outside, on
occasion, but the busy street traffic fumes and noise make it a less than
desirable picnic spot.

St. Roch is open about 12 hours a day, but which 12 is anybody's guess.
Mostly 8-8.
For those of you who live above Canal, and have never ventured to this part
of town, St. Roch is located at 2381 Saint Claude Avenue.

Reach St. Roch at (504) 943-5778, if you want to check on specials or the
availability of seafood.

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