x0x A winter's tale on the coast of the Black Sea

{See the following for photographs:
http://www.mehmetsokmeninyeri.com/Photo/kategori.asp?kategori=Karadeniz%20B%F6l.
http://web.syr.edu/~oakdemir/Pictures/Turkey/kdeniz/karadeniz.htm
http://www.mfa.gov.tr/grupc/ca/caa/uu/yayla/plateau.htm ]


x0x A winter's tale on the coast of the Black Sea

By Ali Ihsan Gokcen

The silent sound of snow fills the air. Winter has come with its white
quilt, concealing the autumn colours in the forests of the western
Black Sea forests. The leaves that a few weeks ago rustled underfoot
in the forests and splashed the mountains with their bright autumn
colours are sleeping now. Feather light flakes of snow spin down from
the sky, bringing tranquillity to the landscape. Beeches, hornbeams,
pines, firs and aspens glisten in their snowy white garb.

Turkey's western Black Sea region is famous for its autumn colours,
but is equally beautiful in a different way in all seasons, thanks in
particular to the diversity of tree species. These natural forests
with their mixture of deciduous and evergreen trees rise from sea
level high into the mountains, changing in character as the altitude
increases. When winter comes, the region with its swathes of forest
under a blanket of snow, frozen lakes and stone roofed houses is
transformed into a world of fairytale. Trees of every kind become like
sculptures.

If snow falls early in the season, you may be lucky enough to see a
landscape of special loveliness, snow contrasting with as yet glowing
autumn colours.

In the Koroglu and Ilgaz mountains thick forests of fir and Austrian
pine cover the high slopes up to the tree line at around 2000 metres,
above which the bare snowy peaks are perfect for skiing. From the
beginning of winter the ski resort of Kartalkaya in the Koroglu
Mountains and the resorts in the Ilgaz Mountains become magnets for
winter sports enthusiasts. It is possible to ski throughout the winter
here, while many others come just to enjoy the scenery of coniferous
forests, streams, waterfalls and lakes.

As the temperature drops, the covering of snow advances down the
mountains, gradually reaching the deciduous forests. Now the lakes and
streams begin to freeze, and if you visit Lake Abant at 1328 metres
around this time, you will see the crystals of newly forming ice in
its dark blue waters.

This lake has a number of comfortable hotels on its shores, and has
long been a popular winter holiday place. A road and trail encircling
the six kilometre perimeter of the lake mean that even under the
harshest winter conditions visitors young and old can enjoy the lake
and its wooded shores.

Yedigoller (Seven Lakes) National Park in the same region is another
beauty spot, but only to be recommended for the more adventurous in
snowy weather. Here the deciduous woods predominantly comprising
oriental beech surround the seven lakes that lie between eight and
nine hundred metres. The blue-grey frozen lakes and the backdrop of
trees with ice-bound branches are a magical sight, each lake having
its own distinctive character. With permission from the Ministry of
Forestry it is possible to stay in timber cabins at the lake edge, a
marvellous experience for those who enjoy alternative holidays.

Or you can make your base in the town of Bolu and take day trips to
these and the many other beauty spots in this area. One and a half
hours away, in the direction of Kartalkaya, is Sarialan, where twelve
high pastures dotted with wooden houses, woods and streams make
wonderful winter walking. Golcuk, an hou'sn drive away, takes its name
from a small lake amidst fir forest. Here there is a trail for walkers
and places to eat, and many people make day excursions here during the
winter.

Another good centre for winter days out is the city of Kastamonu south
of the Kure Mountains. Many of those who come to ski on Mount Ilgaz
stay here, and there are numerous attractive places easy of access in
winter in the mountains near the city, such as Azdavay, Pinarbasi,
Senpazar, Cide, Ulus, Catalzeytin, Abana, Gokceagac and Inebolu. To
enjoy memorable winter landscapes, the western Black Sea coast is the
perfect destination over the next few months.

* Ali Ihsan Gokcen is a photographer and freelance writer